EuropePosted by Espen Fri, September 27, 2013 12:31:07
As you’ve seen from our border crossing / shipping post, we made it to Europe and Greece. And even if Israel in some ways felt quite European, arriving in Greece definitely took the edge of the adventure level. We quickly decided to skip the “easy” route involving a ferry to Italy and driving north on Italian highways, and instead went for the road up along the Adriatic Sea through the Balcans. Before leaving Greece we stopped for a few days on the beach on the Peloponnese Peninsula.
On the way out to the peninsula we drove across the Corinth Canal, first started in the first century AD, but not finished until 1883. And with this canal cutting 6,2 kilometers through the base the peninsula, it is now, technically speaking, an island.
Our final stop in Greece before crossing the border to Albania, is the impressive and slightly surreal tourist attraction, Meteora. These monasteries were built in the 16th century, so it is not that they are very old (from a European point of view… (but it is almost as old as Machu Pichu)), but the locations are incredible. Yes, that is a real building, and it is a BIG house!
New for us are the crowds of tourists. We were expecting them in Egypt, but as you know we hardly saw any even at the main tourist attractions. Here in Greece it is bus load after bus load, and we fear that it is going to get worse as we drive north along the Adriatic coast towards Central Europe.
Crossing borders in Europe is very different from what we have been through the last couple of years. Even crossing from Greece to Albania, which is not in the European Union (or EEC), it took us only a few minutes. The road changed instantly driving into Albania, and the feeling of adventure was back.
On our map we were following a road marked as a “secondary road”. It was narrow, but the surface was good, and we were doing good time. At one point we were looking for a place to stop for the night, but we saw no obvious places. Normal procedure is then to start asking, but looking at the map we had only about a hundred kilometers left to Berat, the town we were driving towards. We decided to keep going. That became quite interesting. The road got worse, and soon we were on a 4x4 trail. A nice feeling of course, but it was slow going and it was getting dark. We kept going and arrived in Berat around nine o’clock.
Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and we wanted to spend a day visiting the old castle and walk around in the old narrow streets. We were looking for a backpacker hostel we found in our guide book, but luck had it we stopped at one of the first hotels to ask for directions. Malin went in to ask, but came back out telling me we were booked in. It was a fantastic, small hotel, just opened, and not too expensive. It also had one of the best Italian restaurants we’ve ever tried. Are you going to Berat, check in to Hotel Muzaka (south bank)!
Roads were better from here, and after a stop on the coast on our way north, we drove back inland to the Theth Mountains.
Again, the roads quickly turn into rough gravel roads as soon as you leave the main highways. It is not like a technical offroad trail, but very nice to have a 4x4, or at least solid ground clearance.
This is not a very developed area, and you think this is how the Alps must have been before all the hotels and gondolas came around. Visiting some of these places in the mountains is almost like stepping back in time. Wouldn’t mind going back to Theth to explore more of this area, but now we are on our way to Montenegro…
Border crossingsPosted by Espen Wed, September 04, 2013 00:28:19
Coming up the east coast of Africa there are at the moment very limited options for finding your way to Europe without container shipping. The ferry that used to run from Egypt has been canceled, and the other routes from Egypt through Libya or east via Syria are closed because of unrest or sivil war. This leaves Israel and two ferries, and these reach three ports on the European mainland.
From Haifa there is a Ferry going to Greece via Cyprus. You can take the car to both destinations, and from Cyprus you can take a another ferry to Turkey. If you take the Ferry all the way to Greece, you land in Lavrio just south of Athens. The third option is a Ferry from Ashrod to the west side of Italy. This is more expensive and takes almost a week, but take you straight to Central Europe.
The ferry from Haifa was smooth, and the "border"/port to Greece was very easy.
Contact in Haifa is Rosenfeldt Shipping. Alice Rozner will book you on the ferry. We came to the office the day before the sailing to pay for the tickets. It is 690 € for the car and 300 € per person. You get a cabin, and we were 6 passengers on the ferry. All meals are included and quite good (at least from an African point of view). Make sure you have the European Green Card for proof of insurance (but you should have this to get into Israel as well.)
Before driving onboard you have to register at the port office. It is just across the road from the shipping company, and it took us 30 minutes the same day as we payed the tickets. They charge 1308 Shekels (about 280 €) port fee. Less (about 100 €) if your car weighs less than 1400 kilograms. This fee will be the same if you enter through Haifa.
To find the office can be tricky, but here are the instructions: Walk up the bridge/ramp (Number 5), past one unmanned gate, and walk over to the gate with a security checkpoint. Check in. Take right across the small footbridge to the nearest building (10 meters). Inside, walk down the stairs one floor, take right from the bottom of the stairs, then first to the left, at the end turn right, and go through the door to an office cubicle/counters landscape. Ask the first person you see how to pay the port fee. Easy :-) A paper/receipt you get here has to be taken back to the shipping office.
We were told to show up next day at 1500 sharp at the same gate as where we went for the port fees. Drive up the ramp and wait. A guy from the shipping company takes you into the port area, through immigration (got a few questions about why we went to Sudan, but no problem at all ("its the only way", seems to explain it)), and then clear customs. There is a few stops and a few hundred meters driving around port to get the exit stamp and to cancel your temporary vehicle import. You drive your car onboard, and park basically just next to the cabins. You have access to the car at all times. Passports are handed in to the crew/captain.
The ferry stops at Cyprus for 6-8 hours, and you can go off and see Limasol (not drive). I don't know much about customs here, but I know they charges for the port and the paperwork. More cargo was loaded, and we were told that during winter the ferry was normally full from Israel transporting trailers with fruits and vegetables to the European market.
Driving off the ferry for the last leg home...
In Greece you drive off the ferry and park. It took about an hour to get our papers as there were a lot of cars (people on holiday) from Cyprus. No passengers though. When we got the vehicle paper (some kind of Bill of Lading, I believe), we got our passports and we just drove out. No inspections, no costs.
A.Rosenfeld Shipping Ltd. (Haifa, Israel)
T + 972 4 8613 671
F + 972 4 8537 002
IsraelPosted by Espen Wed, August 21, 2013 17:59:50
It is strange how different the feeling can be for two places just a few hundred meters apart. The Sinai Peninsula is considered dangerous, and most governments around the world have travel warnings for this area. A couple of hundred meters across the border to Israel, Israelis and tourists are camping on the beach and enjoying food and good wine in the holiday-town Eilat on the Red Sea. Israel has only a few kilometers of coast line on the Red Sea, and it is mostly developed into tourist resorts. Almost at the border is a Marine Reserve (for corals), and they allow free camping directly on the beach.
The evening we crossed the border we drove into town to look for a cheap hostel, but didn’t really find anything. Israel is an expensive place, and the Youth Hostel would charge us 130 USD per night for a double. After checking out a couple of places, we drove back out to the “free beach” and camped there. The plan was to stay for the night and keep driving north the next day, but when two park rangers pulled up (we thought they were there to tell us to get lost..) and wanted to take pictures of the Patrol and the roof top tent, they told us about where we could find water, toilet and shower facilities nearby. We ended up staying four nights relaxing after the long days in Egypt sorting out the shipping that in the end didn’t happen. It was also good the go through some of our emergency food that we’ve had in the car for months coming up through Africa. There were some interesting combinations, but it really is amazing what a Chef can do with dry and canned food.
As we more or less missed out on the desert in Egypt we went for the Negev Desert in southern Israel. We had a route recommended by internet friends from Israel, and we had a fantastic drive up the Nekarot Canyon. Negev reminded us of southern Utah in the USA, and it really is 4x4 country. There must be loads of different routes and camp sites in this area.
Camping under the stars in the Maktesh Ramon Crater. We had the camp for ourselves, and in the light from the full moon the crater was magical!
The road also went up and drove along the rim. The views were spectacular.
Everybody has heard about the Dead Sea and how the saline levels make you float like a piece of cork. The Dead Sea is a lake on the border between Israel and Jordan, and it is about 400 meters BELOW sea level. Yes, this is one of the lowest places on earth. Driving down from the Negev Desert the temperature rose about a degree per 100 meters driving down (300 ft.).
When we reached the lake the thermometer in the car showed 42 degrees Celsius, almost at hot as in Khartoum. As several places along the lake are marked as dangerous because of sink holes, we drove until we found a designated swimming area. We asked the guy at the parking if he knew about any camping nearby, and he told us it would be no problem camping right there at the parking area. Why not? We popped the tent and went for the swim.
Well, it wasn’t much of a swim. You are just too high in the water to get your feet and hands in to push forward. The pictures you may have seen of people just lying there reading a newspaper are actually true. You can. And be careful going in if you have a cut or a wound as it stings like he##. The water is so salt it actually feels thick. Very strange.
We also got a chance to stop at the Masada ruins on a hilltop not far from the lake. They have built a gondola going all the way up to the plateau, and that is probably smart considering the temperatures. We bought a one-way ticket, and decided that we at least would walk back down.
Masada was built between 103 and 76 BC and then got into the hands of Herod the Great in 43 BC. The location is spectacular, and it must have been a very efficient fortress at the time. Unfortunately (for them..), in the end it was conquered by the Romans, the outline of their camps still visible far down below the city. The 967 Jews that had taken refuge at Masada committed mass suicide instead of being captured by the Romans.
The temperature was getting quite unpleasant around midday, and we decided it was time to leave if we should have a chance at all to get down before coming down with a heat stroke. We soaked our hair and shirts in water and went for it. We jogged most of the way down, and 30 minutes later we were eating at McDonalds at the visitor center at the base of the gondola. A dispenser coke has never tasted better…..
Climbing out of the depression around the Dead Sea the temperature dropped, and before reaching Jerusalem it was back down to a comfortable 32 degrees Celsius. Perfect for a few days strolling around town taking pictures and drinking ice coffees.
Border crossingsPosted by Espen Mon, August 12, 2013 19:47:36
the border to Israel is another one of the infamous border crossings in Africa.
Many travelers have told us about hours and hours of questioning and waiting.
Some even say that they don’t even want to try as chances for getting a visa is
slim. Some overlanders we knew well drove through Israel a few months before
us, and they reported back that the crossing is slow and tedious, but that it’s
not really a problem. As you know from previous blogs, our first plan was to
cross from Egypt to Jordan, and then from Jordan to Israel. As we were delayed
first into Egypt, and then stopped by the demonstration and unrest, we decided
to try to ship out from Egypt to Turkey. This didn’t work out as planned, and
the only option left to us was to drive across the Sinai, and ship out from
Israel. Now we were even more delayed as we’d been waiting in Port Said to
arrange the shipping out of Egypt, so we saw Jordan being postponed to a later
trip. We drove to Taba and started the process of leaving Egypt. T&he main road ends in the border station..
the customs in Aswan, the Taba customs came close to be referred to as
efficient. Everything is relative in this world. We were three cars driving
together, and this slows down the process considerably as the officials for
some reason like to get all three of us through a certain step in the process
before moving on to the next one.
After driving into the customs zone, and pay
2 EL each (about 35 cents), you take a left a few meters after the gate (and
just in from of the Immigration Office) and park on a big parking lot to the
left of the Immigration building. Proceed to the building on the other side of
the parking lot.
Walk in through the door in the center of the building, and
turn right to find the customs office. And the very first step was for the guys
at the customs to call and get the guy with the stamps to come to the office.
This never stops to amaze me… Anyway. There is a form to fill in, and to process
the Carnet you have to pay 21 EL.
is to go across the hall to the police office (in through the main door and to
the left). While we were in the customs office, and engineer was outside to get
the vin number from the Patrol. Also here he needed to “rub” off a print on the
vin number stamped into the frame of the car. In the police office another form
has to be filled in, and then you can hand in the Egyptian transit license
plates. The fee is 10 LE. We got receipts for the costs.
proceed to the Immigration office. Note that this is the only border where
we’ve processed the vehicle before our passports. We walked back to the
Immigration building and got the exit stamp in our passports. You leave on the
other side of the immigration building, but it is okay to walk around back to
the parking lot. Paperwork finished!
most meaningless and annoying part is still to come. Before they let you drive
over to the Israeli side, they need to inspect the vehicles. Every overlander
we’ve talked to say the same. In our case there were two officers going through the whole car. There
was a third one coming over and asked Malin to open the backdoors, but she said
no, as we like to see what is going on. Each of us watched one customs officer.
We’re not sure why it is important for them to do this on exit and not on
entry, as there was no inspection in Aswan upon entry. We suspect it is because
it would be embarrassing for the Egyptians if the Israelis find things they
don’t, but who knows. And because they wanted to inspect all three cars before
letting any of us through, we spent about two and a half hours on the Egyptian
side. Much of it waiting for the inspection of the two other vehicles.
could drive across to the Israeli side. Here they have a system where only one
car can drive in at the time. Before they let us in they collected our
passports and vehicle papers, and looked under the car with a mirror. And as
overland vehicles generally are so full of stuff there was only enough space on
the parking outside the customs building for two cars. The British guy was
“stuck” at the gate while we and a German couple emptied our cars into plastic
boxes and “shopping carts”. Fortunately we were mentally prepared for this, and
we knew beforehand that EVERYTHING has to come out of the car. I’ll say it
again: absolutely everything that is not permanently bolted in place goes out! Knifes
and dangerous looking tools, like an axe, is collected, and we were told we
would get these back at the exit gate. When everything is out, all this goes
through a luggage scanner. It really is incredible how much crap is collected
over three years of overlanding… The car also goes through a vehicle scanner,
and a customs officer makes a manual/visual check in a closed garage. You are
not allowed to drive the car in, and you are not allowed to be there to monitor
the inspection. This is slow and time consuming, but everybody involved are
very professional and polite. Everything is thoroughly explained, and you’re
even offered soft drinks from the custom officers. At no time were we worried
about our stuff or things “disappearing ”. When everything has gone through the
scanner, we proceed to the Immigration in the same building.
the retired German couple got their three months tourist visas right away. It
took about two minutes. They do not stamp your passport, but give you a small
printed piece of paper with the visa. British guy and I were told we had to
talk to another officer before we would get our visas. I was called into
another office and a nice lady asked me a couple of questions about our trip.
The Sudanese stamp in my passport was mentioned, but when I explained that this
is the only way to drive through Africa (eastern route) it was not an issue.
They wanted my father and my grandfather’s name so they could run a security
check on me, and I believe it was the same for the British guy. We waited about
15 minutes for the security check to go through, and she came out with our
visas were ready we went back outside and started loading everything back into
the car. 30 minutes later we drove towards the exit gate, and parked there. In
a building just to the right of the gate, is the desk that issues the temporary
vehicle permit and where pick up your vehicle papers. They do not process the
Carnet. European insurance companies can issue a so called Green Card, and we
had picked up ours when we were home. If you don’t have this you need to buy an
Israeli insurance here at the border. There is another building on the left
just before the exit gate where you can buy this. In the same building it is
also possible to exchange money. We got our temporary vehicle permit and were
ready to go. There are no costs at the Israeli side of the border, unless you
need to pick up local insurance. I don’t have the prices for the Israeli
insurance, but it is quite expensive. I think one of the other guys said he
paid over 100 USD for three weeks.
drove up to the gate, a guy handed back our kitchen knifes and the axe. The
whole process on the Israeli side took us at least four hours, so in total for
crossing this border it was nearly seven hours for the three cars. If we’d been
alone it would be less, but you should count on five – six hours and make sure
to have some snacks or food available. Anyway, we were in Israel!
Border crossingsPosted by Espen Wed, August 07, 2013 21:23:54
post the border crossing info only on our unurban.no website, but this one was
kind of different. It also turned out that we have a new record in time to get
the car into a country. USA with 7 days is now down to second place… The Sudan
– Egypt crossing over Lake Nasser is famous for most of the wrong reasons, and
the Egyptian customs is also well known for its bureaucracy and corruption. And
yes, we found out for ourselves.
keep in mind that you’re not allowed to drive across the border between Sudan
and Egypt. At least, this is what we’ve heard from all overlanders we’ve met.
It is not entirely correct, but for practical reasons, this has been the only
option for a normal size 4x4 overland vehicle for years and years. There are
roads, and local trucks drive this from time to time. It is also possible to
get a permit if you have a truck that is too big for the barge, say a large MAN
4x4 or 6x6 truck camper. However, this is both time consuming and very
expensive. A while back there was some talk about opening the border also for
tourists. For the last months we’ve heard that this will be any day now, but
when we came to Wadi Halfa in Sudan the border was still closed. We could of
course pay our way, but it would still be at least three weeks waiting for the
permit from the Egyptian military to drive the road from the border to Aswan.
And the price would have been double from what it costs to put the car on a
barge and ourselves on the ferry.
decided for the ferry. The ferry leaves every Tuesday from Wadi Halfa. In June
the ferry runs twice a week due to local holidays. This is a passenger ferry
only, so the car has to go separately on a barge. The barge leaves when it is
full, or when the captain thinks he has enough cargo to make a decent profit.
This will of course also depend on the price you’re willing to pay. We called a
recommended fixer a few hours before arriving in Wadi Halfa, and four days
before the passenger ferry should leave on the next Tuesday. We agreed to meet
at 0800 the next morning in town. The fixer showed up, two hours after we had
agreed to meet. I’ll be honest anough to say that the first impression wasn’t
the best. For some reason the fixers seem to think it is important to brag
about how many overlanders they know and have helped. They do also like to tell
us that they know many Norwegian overlanders, which we know for a fact is a
lie. Eventually getting down to business he gave us correct prices and seemed
to know what he was doing. We agreed on prices and how he would proceed with
the paperwork. He got copies of all the necessary papers, and we went back into
the desert and camped for a couple of days. Tuesday morning we were told to
meet him back in town.
these couple of days, a British overlander also came to Wadi Halfa. We’d met
him a couple of times along the way from Ethiopia, and he had called ahead to
another fixer and booked shipping for this date about a month in advance. Make
a mental note of this.
morning we met our fixer outside the local police station in the center of
town. We filled in a form, and he took our passports and went inside. We waited
in the car. The British guy was also there, and his fixer did the same thing
for him. Worth mentioning is that the two most known fixers in Wadi Halfa,
Magdi and Masar, are uncle and nephew, and they work together in the same
company. Anyway! Our fixer came back with our passports and we drove to the
ferry. The port is a couple of kilometers north of town, and there is a
checkpoint a few hundred meters before the terminal building. Our fixer had our
tickets and the papers for the port, and we drove in. The cars were parked
inside a fenced area “behind” the passenger terminal. We were told to leave all
our stuff there, and walk around to the front where we would begin the process
of checking out of Sudan. After an hour waiting we finally had our exit stamp,
and we were back in the fenced compound behind the terminal building where we
parked the cars. We packed some clothes, sleeping mats, sleeping bags, water
and some snacks, and waited for the bus that would take us to the pier where
the ferry was docked. Around three o’clock we were on the ferry. Our Patrol and
the British Land Rover Discovery were left in the hands of our fixers, with the
promise of being loaded on the next barge, probably later that same day. Docked
next to the ferry was a barge with a big American pick-up truck with a massive
camper. We later learned from the owner that they had to pay quite a bit extra
because, “this truck was so big that they couldn’t fit other cars on the
barge”. Well, it was quite big, and we didn’t think more about it. The
passenger ferry left around five in the afternoon, and we installed ourselves
as best as we could together with all the other passengers. The capacity was
pushed to the limit, and I’m not talking about the limit that the ship builder
had in mind when they built it, but more like the physical limit of keeping the
boat floating. It was packed with people.
baking hot, and staying inside is not very comfortable. There is of course no
air conditioning. Most people stay on deck, and so did we. We had a tarp and
some rope and made it as comfortable as possible. The trip takes close to two
days (15-20 hours), and a meal is included.
trip was relatively uneventful, but not unpleasant. We arrived safely in Aswan
the next day, and the ferry across Lake Nasser is somehow a part of the eastern
overland route through Africa. That said, now I’ve done it, and I don’t think
I’ll be doing it again anytime soon. Coming into port at Aswan, we saw a fully
loaded barge anchored up next to where the ferry docked. On a closer look we
noticed a Landcruiser under all the boxes. Not good. In Wadi Halfa we met a
South African couple coming south disembarking from the ferry we were leaving
on. They told us that they were expecting their car, a Landcruiser, in,
probably the same day. Our fixer in Wadi Halfa confirmed this and told us that
our Patrol and the Land Rover were going on this barge back to Aswan. Great…
spot the Toyota?
that met us in Aswan took us through customs. It was mayhem going through with
all the people and cargo from the ferry, but an hour later we were officially
in Egypt. This fixer told us the same thing, that the barge in the port was the
one going to Wadi Halfa to pick up our car. It would of course leave almost
right away and be back here in a couple of days. Not much we could do about it,
so we went to a hotel and checked in for a few nights. Little did we know that
we would be staying in this hotel for more than a week.
later we get a phone call from our Aswan fixer. Our car is now on a barge at
the port. They did manage to put a second car on the same barge as the big
American truck camper. Instantly we assumed it couldn’t be the Patrol. After
all, the British overlander in his Land Rover Discovery had booked his shipping
almost a month before us, and we assumed that he would have the space on the
first available barge. We went to the port and on the barge was the Patrol. Yes!
We don’t know what happened, but we found out from the Swiss couple who owned
the camper that they were using the same fixer as us. It could be that simple.
But the two fixers work for the same company, so it still doesn’t make sense.
Another thing we learned was that our fixer was getting married a few days
after we left on the ferry. We were speculating if this was the uncle’s favor,
giving away his client’s space on the barge so that our fixer could leave Wadi
Halfa for Khartoum to get married. Or we simply got lucky. Who knows?
least we felt lucky for about the 15 minutes it took to drive the cars off the
barge and up to the customs office. As we’ve pointed out in earlier border
crossing blogs, we like to have all our papers sorted out and in order. And so
it was this time. We have been travelling for a long time, and when we flew
back to Norway for work, we made sure to extend our Carnet de Passage so it
would be valid for the time it would take us to drive back to Europe. We used
the extended Carnet for Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, and Sudan, but of course,
Egypt has to come up with some rules of their own. We were told by the Customs
Officer that this Carnet would not be accepted without a stamp from the
Egyptian Automobil Association in addition to our Norwegian extension stamp.
The problem it turned out, was that the extension stamp was only on the front
page of the Carnet, not on the individual pages inside. A junior officer
suggested that they could take a copy of the front page and attach it to file,
but the officer in charge had made up his mind.
Driving up the ramp from the barge. To drive out, you have to go through the gate and up to the building you see on the right side of the pic. This is the customs and immigration offices. Walking up from the ferry you go through the blue gate to the right.
Under: parked outside the customs and immigrations building
We called the Egyptian
Automobil Association and asked what this was all about, and a very helpful
lady told me that this was not a problem, and as soon as she got a confirmation
from the Automobil Association in Norway, she would send a fax to the customs
in Aswan stating that my Carnet was valid. Excellent! Unfortunately this was on
a Saturday afternoon, and in Norway everything is closed during the weekend.
Monday morning I was on the phone with Oslo, and it took them only a few
minutes to send the confirmation to Egypt. They also explicitly explained that
the extension stamp goes only on the front page, not inside.
back to the helpful lady, and she told me she would check her fax right away
and get back to me. Nothing happens. I call back, and this time she tells me
she is sorry, but that I would have to talk to her manager. He explains that
this is not possible at all, and that I have to pay 2500 EL, about 350 USD, so
that one of his men can come to Aswan from Cairo to stamp my Carnet, or I have
to come to Cairo to have the Carnet stamped at the Automobil Club office for a
fee of 300 EL, about 43 USD. To do this I would need to book an overnight train
ticket or plane ticket, a hotel in Cairo, and then a ticket back south to Aswan
the next day. After being told that this should be no problem, I’m getting
pretty angry about the whole thing. Something isn’t right here, and I call the
fixer and start asking questions. Eventually I learn that the guy in charge of
the Carnet de Passage in the Automobil Club in Cairo used to work in Aswan, and
is a friend of the Customs officer. If this is true, the organization behind
the Carnets, TIA in France, should really take a look at this. On the other
hand, Egypt is probably one of the last countries in the world that actually
requires this document from travellers. According to Egyptians we’ve talked to,
visiting vehicles from the neighboring countries are issued temporary import
permits as everywhere else in the world. Looking at TIA’s website, the newest
information I could find was from 2004. Personally I don’t think the Carnet de
Passage will be around for much longer.
I get back
on the phone with the Norwegian Automobil Association, and they promise to
write me a new Carnet and send it by DHL the same day. I don’t have to pay for
the new Carnet, and the DHL fee is a lot less than what it would have cost me
to go to Cairo or have the guy bring the stamps to Aswan. Issuing a new Carnet
and have it sent from Norway to Aswan also takes about the same time as it
would take me to go to Cairo or to wait for the guy from the Egyptian Automobil
Association. I guess this is why Europe is Europe and Egypt is still Africa…
noon I have the new Carnet in my hands in Aswan. I call the fixer and we all go
to the port. The senior officer is nowhere to be seen, and the younger officer
processes the Carnet, we pay the port fees, parking fee, and insurance, and
three hours later we put on our temporary Egyptian license plates and drive out
from the port. It is a good feeling, but it has taken nine days of our 30 day
tourist visa, and the whole thing just because of a corrupt and incompetent
customs officer. Egypt deserves better.
Wadi Halfa, Sudan: Mazar, telephone: +249 122380740, email:
Aswan, Egypt: Kamal, telephone: +20 (0) 10 053 22669
the sailing from Wadi Halfa to Aswan. The prices we got from Mazar are as
on the barge: 220 USD
fees: 30 USD (we’re not exactly sure about the price for the barge and custom
fee. We have heard different prices, and we agreed on a total price. We paid
about two-thirds in Sudanese pounds and the rest in USD (6,5 Sudanese Pounds to
person on the ferry: 40 USD
to fixer: 30 USD
costs in Sudan: 360 USD
Visas for Egypt: 15 USD per person (Note: The passports are collected in a box
when you board the ferry in Wadi Halfa, and you get them back in Aswan)
in Aswan DOES NOT accept extended Carnets unless it is extended in Egypt!
fee: 520 EL
license plates, and driver license: 250 EL (we heard 230 from other travelers)
at the port (as we were delayed): 190 EL (it is about 30-35 EL per day, and you
pay about half to the police and half to customs).
to fixer: 40 USD or 300 LE
to port: 10 EL per person to the police